In most cases: no. Standard TV power cords and extension cords are “flexible cords” and are not intended to be used as permanent in-wall wiring. The clean look is tempting, but it’s a common safety/code issue.

Boston-friendly alternatives:

• Install a recessed outlet behind the TV (typically handled by a licensed electrician).
• Use a listed in-wall power relocation kit designed specifically for behind-TV installs (these keep power handling compliant and separated from low-voltage).
• If you can’t go in-wall (rentals/brick), use a paintable surface raceway to hide the vertical drop.

The “pro” setup is usually one of these:

• Recessed outlet + recessed low-voltage plate (power separated from HDMI/Ethernet).
• Listed in-wall power relocation kit (built for TV power + low-voltage pass-through, without fishing a normal power cord inside the wall).
• Surface raceway if the wall is brick/stone or you’re avoiding wall openings.

In Boston homes and condos, the right choice depends on wall type (drywall vs. plaster), stud type (wood vs. metal), and where your existing outlet is located.

Low-voltage cables (HDMI, Ethernet, coax, speaker wire) are typically fine to route in-wall when they’re in-wall rated.

• HDMI: Look for CL2/CL3 (in-wall) rating on the jacket/packaging for in-wall runs.
• Speaker wire / AV: CL2/CL3 (or higher appropriate ratings) are commonly used for in-wall safety.
• Ethernet: Use properly rated communications cable (Cat6/Cat6A, etc.).

Also: keep power and low-voltage separated (either different boxes or a listed divider) so you don’t create interference or safety issues.

Often, yes—especially for new/modified 120V wiring. Massachusetts follows the state electrical code (527 CMR 12.00, based on the NEC/NFPA 70 with amendments), and Boston has an inspectional services authority for electrical compliance.

Because rules can vary by building and scope, the safest approach is:

• Assume new outlets / new circuits / modifications should be handled (and permitted/inspected) through qualified pros.
• For condos and multi-unit buildings, check building rules as well as city requirements.

Yes—usually—but the method changes.

• Plaster & lath (Back Bay / South End style walls): Clean openings and patching take more finesse than drywall, and fishing paths can be tighter.
• Brick/stone/concrete: Full in-wall routes may be impractical; surface raceway, trim routes, or a false wall / chase can be the cleanest option.
• Above a fireplace: Heat and masonry often push you toward either a properly planned in-wall route (where feasible) or a discrete surface solution.

If your goal is “zero visible wires,” planning the cable path matters as much as the mount location.

For a true “floating TV” look, placement should be based on your specific bracket and TV size:

• Power: A recessed outlet is usually positioned behind the TV so the plug doesn’t push the TV off the wall.
• Low-voltage: HDMI/Ethernet exits should land where the TV’s ports are accessible without bending cables sharply.
• Same stud bay: Many clean in-wall routes keep the top and bottom openings within the same stud bay for a straight drop.

Pro tip: if you’re adding a soundbar, plan both the TV and soundbar cable paths together so you don’t end up with a “second set” of visible wires later.

Usually yes, but expect a tighter workspace. Exterior walls often have insulation, vapor barriers, and sometimes unexpected blocking. The cleaner options are:

• Keep the route simple and vertical (short run, same stud bay when possible).
• Use a listed kit or a properly installed outlet solution rather than improvising with cords.
• If the wall is “too packed,” a paintable surface raceway can look surprisingly seamless.

In older Boston housing stock, exterior walls can be the difference between a 45-minute tidy job and a “needs planning” install.

The Frame TV “gallery” look depends on hiding both power and the One Connect cable.

• Power: Treat it like any other TV—don’t run a standard power cord in-wall; use a proper in-wall power solution.
• One Connect: If you want it in-wall, use the manufacturer’s in-wall rated/UL-listed One Connect in-wall cable (model varies by TV generation).
• Where to put the box: Many setups place the One Connect box in a console, closet, or an in-wall media enclosure depending on room layout.

Pricing varies a lot based on the wall material and whether electrical work is needed. National marketplaces often list “wire hiding” as an add-on service, but Boston factors like plaster walls, brick, and condo rules can move the price up.

• Lower cost: Drywall, short vertical drop, existing outlet nearby.
• Higher cost: Plaster/lathe patching, brick/stone, above-fireplace routing, new outlet/circuit work, or complex gear (soundbar, in-wall media box).

If you want a fast estimate, define two things first: (1) your wall type, and (2) whether you need new power behind the TV or you’re using a listed relocation solution.

• Running a regular power cord in-wall (looks clean, but it’s the #1 safety/code mistake).
• Buying non in-wall rated HDMI/speaker cable and fishing it through the wall anyway.
• Putting power + low-voltage in the same box without proper separation/dividers.
• No plan for future upgrades (adding a soundbar, Apple TV, Ethernet, or a longer HDMI later).
• Mounting first, planning second (the TV ends up blocking the ideal outlet/cable location).

Best practice: plan the layout (TV height, mount type, outlet location, device locations) before making any openings—especially in Boston plaster or brick walls.